Dante considered Florence a den of snakes, and I can see why, but he also lamented his exile from this bejeweled city and I can absolutely see why -- years into my own (voluntary?) exile from Florence.
It’s truly beguiling as cities go -- not one you can write
off easily (though he and I have both tried!).
Beguiling describes its allures and also its current state,
mired as it is in overtourism -- but can we blame anyone for
wanting to visit this enchanting city I once called home?
(Not unlike the notion that Italy is familiar to me, I also
revel in saying that Florence is a city I once called home. Maybe how
native-born Manhattanites feel? Though that level of entitlement I could never
approach).
As I write, I’m sitting in a living room on Via della Vigna
Vecchia – not #1 but rather #12, and outside, from a tiny terrace, there’s an
up close-and-personal view of the tower in Palazzo Vecchio. At this moment, the
churches are chiming out 7 o’clock and I feel compelled to go out on the
terrace to hear the bells – like the world coming alive in surround sound.
We arrived on Monday, and as usual, I have professed my love
for Florence -- and spent time getting reacquainted with her -- by walking her
streets. That is the way for me to take the city’s pulse, and my own. Will you
grow weary of reading that only when I have prowled the streets for hours each
day do I feel as though I am truly visiting Florence? Speriamo no.
Denise posted on Facebook that she was at the Shore for her
birthday, and I had a serious case of FOMO.
And yet, while she was at the beach, I was meeting with my
one-time roommate, Irene, and her husband, and reveling in the joys of old
friendships. We chose to meet up at this ridiculously cool bar by the Sant’Ambrogio
market, where Mike and I found seats outside while we waited but when Irene
arrived, she said, “Well, have you seen the internal courtyard?” I had not and let’s
just say the nuns who once lived at the convent now converted into a bar had
some nice green space (would they have enjoyed the glass of Bolgheri we had?
Maybe).
Yesterday I found two books I’d been looking for at the Florence
branch of Il Libraccio: Vita immaginaria by Ginzburg and Lettera da
Francoforte by Edith Bruck (finally!). Who knows how many more books I’ll
try to schlep home? The quantity I’d like to buy is probably a number in the
low three figures.
I also shopped at my old market (in Italian, Il Mercato di
Sant’Ambrogio) yesterday. Still authentic, still wonderful, still selling
qualche etto di prosciutto (crudo, always crudo, for chrissakes) that I can’t
resist.
State of the city: positively infested with tourists,
and the main part of centro storico is now full of quickie snack stops for travelers (rather than residents), as
I wrote during an earlier trip. If back then, there were 15 snack stops (panini
shops, wine bars geared toward foreigners, convenience stores) in a half-mile,
now there are 40. And they've displaced local shops that served residents.
State of Leonardo (as he is known here, not far from
Vinci, home of the other Leonardo): Well, we saw my old friend, Chiara,
last night for a walk through centro & then dinner, which was lovely
until we said our goodbyes and Leo yelled at me, “Three hours of you talking in
Italian!” But what was nice: I suggested we go to a bookstore (so Chiara could
pick out a book for her upcoming vacation) but instead she said she wanted to find
Andremo in città, (i.e., the book I translated) which they didn’t have
(alas).
(Update: The state of Leonardo was quite good at the Ferrari store where we bought him a pricey shirt and also before in the mountains where he was surrounded by cats and dogs.)
I spend my days taking an inventory of what was and what is, especially since Mike insisted we rent a place on our old street (which is also around the corner from my last apartment in Florence).
My old tower of course is still there but now at the base, there’s yet another restaurant
for tourists (meanwhile our bread bakery not far away is long gone; oh the focaccia
you could get there!). At Vivoli, there’s a line out the door – not so
surprising, as even at 8:30 a.m., gelato is yummy (apparently) – but they’ve
also expanded and taken over the corner grocery Paola used to run. I guess no
one needs gorgonzola anymore.
Morning coffee with biscotti: enjoyed on the tiny terrace while the Torre di Arnolfo looks on (see above). The only cool respite in a city baked by the August sun.
My church is open most days and more gorgeous than I
remember (just a neighborhood church) plus the ‘Crazy Drycleaner’ (our
nickname, not the name of his shop) is still there – but the macellaria
(butcher) where we bought the Thanksgiving turkey one year is gone.






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