This is a travel post about a trip I
haven’t taken yet.
I am going to a place where I need no
friends, no itineraries, where I need nothing more than people in the streets
speaking the native language, which feels at once thrillingly novel to me and
cozily familiar.
I am going, but of course, to Italy -- where I
once lived (and thrived, as only one can in Italy). And I plan to feast on every
encounter with every barista, every bite of my favorite ciambellina pastry,
every tinkle of spoons as I stir a cappuccino in a caffe, every moment at
the bus stop chiacchierando with an older signora about what’s keeping the bus from
arriving.
I wouldn’t normally be so cocky about the
future – as anyone knows, life has a way of surprising you, especially life on
trips.
But two years ago, I spent 5 days in Italy
and the mind-blowing,
mind-altering success of the trip was
evident within a few hours on the ground, when a man holding a motorcycle
helmet walked into a coffee bar by the Campidoglio in Rome. Clearly a regular,
he jutted out his chin and exchanged a look with the barista that wordlessly conveyed, “Do you see
what I’m saying?” and “Can you believe that?” Where both parties knew exactly
what “that” referred to. For his part, the barman, drying a glass behind the
counter, shot the customer one quick glance that seemed to say, “Oh finally
you’re here!” and “What a day we’re having!”
I nibbled on my schiacciata with prosciutto crudo, and watched, in
hopes the conversation-cum-afternoon chronicle would continue.
Then I returned to the hotel in Rome where
I would be staying just a single night, and sitting in the window sill of my second-story room, I looked out over
the narrow, cobblestone street below as a Roman toddler biked back and
forth in front of his mother’s shop. I wondered for a moment, what could
someone do with only 24 hours in Rome? That was all the time I had given
myself in the Eternal City before moving on to Florence.
As for the particulars, well, I am going to Torino (with quick stops in Milan and the countryside outside of Torino). I've kept the trip largely secret from American friends -- what I call a 'pearl in my pocket,' an idea I trot out for a precious audience of one, savoring the thought that I will soon be there -- largely because any time I am going to Italy, it feels impossible. Impossibly wonderful, impossibly special, impossible that it will really happen. When you want something so much, you fear anyone could pry your little dream from you. Italy will never be a casual tourist destination for me -- like that old boyfriend of yours whom you cannot see without wondering what could have been (in my case, quite literally, the 'boyfriend' in question IS Italy. Hence the analogy).
In any event, I will be going there in May to attend one of Italy's biggest book fairs, il Salone del Libro.
But really I will be going there to eavesdrop on conversations, to saunter through the streets, to wait expectantly at the counter of a caffe in the hopes